How to Patch Drywall Holes and Touch Up Paint So the Repair Disappears

Step-by-Step Instructions

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   Step 1: Assess the damage and choose the right repair

   Match the repair to the hole:

   • Nail and screw holes: fill with lightweight spackle and a putty knife.
   • Holes up to about 3 inches: use a self-adhesive mesh patch or a metal-backed patch.
   • Holes of 3 to 6 inches or more: cut the hole into a clean square, add backing strips and fit a matching piece of drywall.

   The steps below cover the mesh or metal patch method, which suits most household repairs.

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   Step 2: Prep the area and protect the room

   Lay a drop cloth, and tape off the surrounding trim. Check behind the wall for wires and pipes. Clear furniture away so you can work in good light.

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   Step 3: Clean and square up the hole

   Use the utility knife to trim torn paper and loose edges. Lightly sand around the opening so the surface is flat and free of bumps. Wipe away dust with a damp sponge. A clean edge helps the patch and compound bond properly.

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   Step 4: Apply the patch

   Center the self-adhesive patch over the hole and press firmly from the middle outward, so there are no bubbles or wrinkles. For a metal-backed patch, press it flat against the wall and secure it as directed.

   Pro tip: Press the edges down with a taping knife so they sit flush. Raised edges are a common reason patches show later.

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   Step 5: Apply the first coat of joint compound

   With a 6-inch knife, press compound through the mesh and spread it smoothly, extending about 2 inches beyond the patch edges. Keep the layer thin. Scrape off any ridges. Let it dry completely, which usually takes several hours depending on thickness and humidity.

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   Step 6: Build and feather the second and third coats

   Use a 10 to 12-inch knife for the next coats and make each one wider than the last, feathering the outer edges so they taper to nothing. Several thin coats are better than one thick coat, because thick compound cracks, shrinks and takes longer to dry.

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   Step 7: Sand smooth

   When the final coat is dry, sand lightly with 120 to 150-grit paper, then finish with 220 grit. Use very light pressure and sand in wide circles. Hold a flashlight at a low angle across the wall to reveal ridges and low spots, and run your hand across the repair with your eyes closed. If you feel it, you will see it once it is painted. Wipe off all dust.

   Safety: Wear your mask and eye protection. Do not sand if you suspect lead paint without testing first.

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   Step 8: Prime the patch

   Apply a coat of drywall or stain-blocking primer over the patch and slightly beyond it. Compound absorbs paint differently than the surrounding wall, and without primer the patch will look dull or blotchy even if the color is perfect. This effect is called flashing.

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   Step 9: Match the texture if your wall is textured

   If your walls have an orange-peel or knockdown texture, match it before you paint. Aerosol texture spray works well for small patches. Spray a light coat, let it set according to the label, and blend. Practice on cardboard first.

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    Step 10: Paint and blend

    Use the same paint, color and sheen as the wall. A leftover can or a paint code from the manufacturer is best. Walls fade over time, so a fresh match can look slightly different.

    Apply thin coats with a small foam roller that gives a similar texture to the wall, starting on the patch and rolling outward to blend. Let each coat dry fully. If the patch still shows, paint the entire wall from corner to corner. A uniform wall hides small differences.

    Pro tip: View your finished work from different angles and in both daylight and lamplight before you call it done.

Why Patches Stay Visible

When to Hire a Professional

Frequently Asked Questions